Thursday, May 4

Uncle Hugo, ´The Bolivarians' and the 'Movement of the Non Aligned': Much Ado..Part 2

Continued from Part I
Image result for mono joyjoyChavez got involved in perhaps a bit of drug trafficking, the same way Castro is alleged to have done, perhaps as a way of avenging all the embargo's and a way to thumb his nose at the US's perceived paternalism and imperialism. He supported the FARC in Colombia to the tune of 300 Million USD in at the Time of Mono Joyjoy's death in 2009 (when Colombian soldiers captured computer files in Ecuador accounting for the payments), in one of his many efforts to become a Regional Power at the expense of US interests, either idealistically or opportunistically, and at this point, no one really felt there was much idealism left in the FARC, so the latter is the best guess.
Hugo kept himself in power with a whole deep bag of tricks. He was brutish and suppressed dissenters. He gave away gas at like 25 cents a gallon to Venezuelans, basically pumped it for cost and only charged exports, mostly through Citgo, the Venezuelan Oil company that is heavily nationalized, and further was nationalized when Chavez drove out independent drillers and suppliers in and around Lake Maracaibo when he took power. it's a cash cow and supports both the Bolivarians and their public works, as by some claims Venezuela is sitting on the largest Oil Reserves in the world, and pumps about 2.5 million barrels a day, about 3% of the world's demand. They consume only about 1/5 of that, 500,000 barrles. The enormous earnings from the other 4/5 went into socialist projects as well, free health care, and other social services. It's hard to argue that these things should be denied the Venezuelans, and it's part of Chavez charm that he did this, that he spent oil revenues in Venezuela instead of sending it abroad to bank accounts, but it created a wave of self entitlement in Venezuela and crime surged, perhaps since the changes were so dramatic. The country became a kind of domestic blood bath, and he created a climate whereby the rich and middle class were blamed for the suppression of the poor, legitimately or not, launching a race war of sorts.
Chavez was creative in other ways however. He put into the air a Bolivarian Communications satellite, and started Broacasting Tele Sur, his South American Propaganda network, to neighboring countries. The message, the rich are screwing you, and only him, his buddies, and the ghost of Simon Bolivar care about you. They tend to be silent on the Catholic Church publicly, allowing it to function somewhat unfettered. It's well known that the Catholic Church is the only social welfare in many parts of Latin America, and taking it on is unwise.
In Part 1 I gave a general history and description of the Bolivarian Movement, and it's historical context in the Movement of the Non Aligned..
Now I will give some more details of where it is strong, how it manifests, and what it means for travelers.

The affected Countries are:

Venezuela
Ecuador
Argentina until just recently, November 2015, although change will come slowly
Bolivia
partially to Brazil, although not horribly.
Nicaragua was sympathetic, as it's always had a leftist lean since the revolution against Samoza in 1979, despite being a pretty legitimate democracy since the end of communism.
Obviously Cuba, the old stalwart of Latin American Leftism
Mexico and most of central america steered clear, enmeshed in their own problems with the drug war and development, and under a close watchful eye of the US. Of them, Guatemala has a vibrant democracy with active leftist parties but it doesn't seem to have gone downhill in this way.
Countries that have avoided it, are Colombia, Peru, Chile, Uruguay and Paraguay, which all kind of maintained a market oriented economy and have been achieving slow but steady progress towards modernity.

After Venezeula, it took hold in Ecuador, with the election of Rafael Correia ( president 10 years and counting). While again, there was some good, and a reason he might have been elected after oligarchic reign, even in fairly egalitarian Ecuador, but he took control with a playbook out of something Marxist-Lenninist and very much influenced by Chavez and his successor Maduro, and started curtailing freedoms, removing guns from the populace, and raising taxes. He is working hard to expand natural gas and oil production in the Jungle areas of east Ecuador against the protests of the native indigenous tribes, and while again, people are grateful for social progress he might have brought, it's become more and more obvious in recent years that he is entrenching himself in power as a dictator, and reducing civil liberties vital to a democracy like free speech.
Image result for rafael correa lula maduroImage result for cristina kirchner maduroThe worst example of this kind of Bolivarianism was an almost Peronist example that just came to an end in Argentina with the defeat of the Kirchner supported candidate to a rightist reform candidate just weeks ago. PEople expect that once the new president has consolidated power, that there might be criminal charges against the Kirchner couple, Nestor from 2003-2007, then his wife Christina from 2007-2015 (an attractive woman but a political disaster.. think a hot spicy Sarah Palin) who both were presidents at some point, for allegedly flying pallets of cash out of the country to personal foreign bank accounts in addition to allegations of murder and corruption to prop up their leftist reign of about 12 years which sent the Argentina economy reeling with price fixing, onerous trade restrictions and nationalizations (again, just like Chavez did). If you are destroying the Argentine beef industry, something is really wrong.
Image result for evo morales maduroAnd then there is Bolivia. If you can imagine, the first indigenous president of Bolivia (a positive change no doubt.. they are 62% of the population, the highest in Latin America) is a guy named Evo Morales, who had been head of the Coca growers association. he's been in power since 2003, and be wary of anyone who serves more than two terms and rewrites a constitution.. Bolivia, along with Venezuela, Ecuador, and until recently Argentina, is the fourth leg to the Bolivarian table. While noone can argue that Morales isn't a smart guy, and that Bolivia didn't need reform, it's hard not to argue that he's become a form of leftist dictator.
They collectively call themselves the Bolivarioan Alliance of the Americas, and have recruited a few carribean countries as well:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ALBA
The president of Brazil, Lula, elected from 2003-2011, was definitely a leftist reform candidate, but to his credit, he never crossed into the realm of venal and tyrannic even though he overlapped the Bolivarian movement and paid some lip service to it. He left power democratically after two terms and didn't place social progress at odds with general prosperity, and Brazil thrived under him.
Uruguay had a Doctor for a president from 2005 to 2010, and like Lula, while a leftist, he was considered to be quite effective and good for the nation as a whole, and not a self satisfied dictator, and he was also just reelected to another term this year.
So where the rubber hits the road, it has affected travelers which is the point of this blog:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_requirements_for_United_States_citizens
Many of these countries have required special entry fees and visas for Americans as part of a larger thing called the Movement of the Non Aligned, which is a leftist third world consortium of countries that blame the first world, especially the US, for many of their ills, and require large entry fees particularly for Americans, as much as 150 dollars, as a penalty to american cities since they say they pay similar fees to enter the US as the US Federal government instituted high fees to pay for screening and fingerprinting etc in the wake of the September 11 attacks. They call it Reciprocity.
http://travel.state.gov/content/visas/en/fees/reciprocity-by-country.html
while many of the countries still allow US citizens Visa on Arrival, the fees at time can be huge, and the treatment rough. For instance, you will charged 160 dollars in advance to go to Argentina, and they will fingerprint you. Brazil requires you to go to their consulate offices to visit. This system will be overwhelmed before the Rio Olympics you can bet. When Brazil first began this system, a few Americans, fresh off the plane, gave fingers during the brusque photo taking and fingerprinting and were arrested for disrespect to federal officers.
Again notice that Bolivia demands $135 from Americans, and Venezuela still requires visa in advance as well. Does Venezuela have a right to be worried.. they might.. I know from personal experience that the Bush administration took at least minor steps to get rid of Chavez, but like anything with a government agency.. it's easy to add a tax, almost impossible to get rid of one. by contrast, neighboring Colombia allows US Citizens in good standing three months upon landing no questions asked and fee free.
When you are in these countries, Ecuadorians have some perspective on it, but in some places like Venezuela and Bolivia, you will be confronted by true believers who will blame you for their ills. While I again can't say the US have been Choirboys for the full extent of our experience with Latin America, we have been significantly hands off since the end of the Cold War barring our partial and somewhat uneven enforcement of the drug war. Compared to the 1980's and before, we are almost non existent in Latin America these days, but if you listen to Tele Sur, we are behind every rock causing chaos.




Wednesday, February 15

The Coolest City in the World: A History

Image result for eiffel tower in the 1920's
This may be western-centric, but I feel like times are defined by cities, by cultures, movements or sub cultures that spring up from individual cities but spread around the world.
I grew up in a place like that in a time like that.. in the 70's and early 80's it was hard not to consider New York City to have been the world culture capitol.. things were just happening.. movies about it and filmed there, music pulsing out, disco, hip hop, then rap, the world seemed focused on New York, but somehow it jumped to Miami, and you could feel it, someone let the air out.. sure New York didn't become irrelevant, but it wasn't the capitol of the excitement anymore.. it then felt like Seattle stole it from Miami, etc etc.
I'm not sure if we know where it is and when until after it cools down and we realize, what the heck was that? that was awesome? but I'm going to try to track this around the world for a bit..
This list is speculation, from what I have gathered in my roaming. I'm open to suggestions.

World Culture Capitol by year:

London 1870-1880
Chicago 1881-1900
Paris 1920-29
San Francisco  1967-1972
New York City 1972-1982
Miami 1982-1987
Seattle 1990-1995
Berlin 1995-2000
Moscow 2000-2003
Shanghai/ Beijing 2003-2009

Friday, December 9

The Venice's... Las Venitzias!

You know how people like to build up places, give them a name relative to some desireable location... well, the other day, I heard the Ol' This city is the Venice of such and such... and I was thinking.. how many times have I heard this before.. decided to make a list just to get it out of my head:

Venice, the Venice of Venice, Italy.. the real one...


Venice, California     The famous funky beach town of LA.. gentrification may be rocking away inland, but the beach is still pure funky.. Italians would appreciate it.. named after a set of canals that a developer dug out from a nearby estuary... went from classy to ghetto to back to classy...

Mexcaltitan, Nyarit, Mexico 'The Venice of Mexico' Having spent a night there, I can't claim it swims in Renessaince Class, but it does swim in community... it's a cozy little place, and way out in the middle of these huge swamps along the pacific I never even knew existed.
http://weburbanist.com/2012/05/22/mexican-venice-the-man-made-island-city-of-mexcaltitan/

Paraty, Brazil   'The Venice of Brazil'   I got here before Twilight, just so you know... so named because streets flood at high tide in this UNESCO world heritage old Portugese mining town inside a bay inside a jungle.. it's cool beans...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/94223363@N02/9121124445/in/photostream/

Birmingham England
The Venice of England.. seriously? yup.. Canals were built for transportation during the industrial revolution.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venice_of_the_North




Sunday, June 5

The English Attitude towards the world, and other Observations

the english attitude towards the world:
 We are benevolent in our authority, but we have authority.. righteousness.. almost anything we do is justified for a greater good...within reason of course..
we are just, so put up with it... we are doing you a favor since we are better than hitler and all the rest... we won't allow a lack of authority, it's in our nature to say no and enjoy it and to feel like we give the bitter pill of truth at any cost as the queen would appreciate it... compassion is not what we are after.. it's weakness.. you need to take care of you, although the queen and government will make it easy to be your cog in the wheel, have no fear about that.. you are the cogs i the machine of the empire.. we are one, but your part is right over here and clearly defined... so do it.. 
I would imagine that few people go to England for the English.. they can be melancholic or imperial, and like so many places that are kind of peaking, the best people are often to be found on the periphery.. the ones with the time to engage and teach and learn, not chasing after the mad ambition of the zeitgeist of the place...  people come here to engage a history and an idea.. the home of the English language that now sweeps the world with the only challenge of the Chinese to it's global ubiquity and cultural importance, with american culture shoehornes in almost on purpose.. but it's not the English you come for really.. despite the occasional refreshing helpfulness of the ex soldier type who seems to have thea nswer you like on a street corner, or the London taxi driver who seems to have a phd in local history... most English lead a kind of dainty and scared existence... obligated but never driven.. pleasures passive more than active.. the charm seems almost accidental, or a product of a bygone day, or if you inquire, it's about keeping up appearances, and the true beneficiaries are the interlopers of tourists and billionaires come to find something refreshing and dependable from whatever lucrative chaos they come from.. they all have an ahh moment when they first arrive dreaming their country could be like this then that feeling fades with time as you realize that the majority of them are afraid to use the great benefits of their land and opportunity.. now this could be said for almost any underclass.. but none have such leverage as this one, but so long has been the elephants subjugation that it is less than a string but works better than almost any place I have been..

the Welsh attitude..
we are here.. we do what we do

the Scottish attitude..
I guess I have to do it, but fuck you for making me.. 1000 years ago I would have cut you in two..

the Irish attitude..
i might get it done, but i'll mock you and undermine you at every step of the way because deep dosn in my soul of souls I know a world exists where I don't have to put up with this shit..

London
the attitude of the locals
we are so important everyone wants to be here.. i mean look at us.. we have perfected cosmopolitan life...  the whole world wishes they had dashing royals and a smart army and taxi drivers and pretty buildings and a great history like us. ordered yet permissive (not free mind you, just permissive) we do it mindful of others, but we have a right to be as self indulgent as we want to be.. with the younger and poorer ones there is a desire to show how they don't fall for con, that they are tough and that no deal could be better than the one they have.. it's almost beaten into them..
the atitude of poor immigrants..
this place is pretty nice, but these people are soft.. they are too trusting and don't know shit about real suffering, but the place works pretty well so I won't put up a fuss, becuase it is relaxing and nice, but if push comes to shove I would bury these people..
the attitude of rich immigrants.. 
I will take all the self indulgence without the noblis oblige.. London is my secret playground.. I don't give a fuck about anyone else.. their endless and deference is weakness..

what I find myself saying in England over and over again:
Wow.. she's hot... shit.. she's polish..

the best things about the UK.
it's easy to get around and to see what you want to see.. both in language and in rail connections and in just if not a helpfulness than at least a British insistence that you might not get frills but what must work does..
Georgian Planned towns up in Scotland
The Welsh
The Irish if you want to be amused..
the endless feeling of character and history and occasionally intrigue
the straightforward attitude of most of the men and the generation before ours that may be robotic but kind of puts it's head down and makes things work.. most of the men say 40-70 feel like an uncle you take for granted but kind of appreciate having, especially when you need help.. like morgan freeman typecast old wise black guys in the states...
only the upper crust give you shit for being american.. the rest wish they were american.. 
the predictability can be reassuring..
the public buses that go way out into the country to places that you actualy want to visit..
you really don't need a car..
the endless history crowned by the unique battle of Waterloo through industrial revelotion maybe to ww1 period of English supremacy and wealth that lead to so many satisfying Sherlock holmes and boats from all over the world intricacies..
The Viking blood in many of the women.. if you are white, the women look attractive even when the shouldn't, and aren't by american standards, at least they do to me.. 
the standard level of trust that exists among normal people in just walking about.. there is less alienation although it creeps in
.. you don't feel like the police are out to get you, meet quotas and participate in a culture war. 
there is no culture war (well, it was won, but now the appreciate counter culture to liven things up a bit, from the queen on down..)
They might not have any wilderness left, but they allow nature to flourish in the cracks just about anywhere.. it's not a roundup kind of place.
Rugby

what Sucks about the UK
food
fear of simple things..
Soccer
imperial attitude of Londoners and some English towards others..
customer service
the authority obsession, and the fair play obsession if it 
the fear of complaining, left over from the war... it's seen as disloyal and unpatriotic so they suffer endless idiocy from others because complaining is bad.. they expect their leaders to complain, but they are afraid to voice their own opinion on any indignity they might experience.. unless they are Scottish.. or a Londoner outside of London..

what sucks about Heathrow Airport  
terminal one was created as a shopping mall, and it can take up to 20 minutes to get to your gate on foot after you are herded through this 75 yard disgusting shopping bazaar.. who the fuck designed it should be shot.. and once you get there and even if you are on time for the time on your card, they will have shut the door 5 minutes early...  it's evil.. and the British could give two shits because they are the queens little boys and girls, and you should know better, again, a nation with only official compassion..
it's way out of town, the signs and layout are confusing, but despite being so far away, the landing path is right over kew gardens and half of West London, so that from about zone 2 your teeth rattle every time a plane goes by..
from now on Gatwick..

Tuesday, December 22

Modern Mexico: Pros and Cons

Mexico is choking these days on it's two cardinal sins, greed and indifference. Greed has always been an issue, but the indifference seems to get worse and worse...
Mexicans succeed in making even the bougois embarrassed.
There is also a streak of Self Entitlement like you have never seen in Mexico. It is the world's oldest Socialist Country, despite the famous reputation of the Soviet Union, and Mexican Politics have harped on charity for so long, since the revolution, and a perception of being screwed and therefore being owed something is so embedded, that the place just radiates with an entitlement. People want a first world lifestyle, and they kind of count on others to give it to them, and they don't have any faith in their ejido or government to lift them up, so their demands for a better life go anywhere they can, and their movement into a market economy and away from self reliance makes that all the more bitter, as their demands and expectations separate even more widely from how the world values what they give and what they need..

Pros
There is a grace that exists in mexico, dying, but a graciousnesss.. it's the fantasy of mexico, harder and harder to find in it's traditional form, the old campesino lady or grandpa type, but they remain an accepting people who are happy to live and let live, and who can make things up to you that you don't expect them to notice or care about, a kind of genial kindness, and forgiveness.
resourcefulness



Cons
cowardice
greed
mimicry without insight, leading to or stemming from incompetence
the endless hassling of foreigners, and the national beleif that foreigners are to be exploited at any opportunity
the Drug War
Horrible Architecture
socialism  and the ejido system
Ignorance
Indifference
being undignified is increasingly seen as a rebellion, and dignified, at the expense of any healthier outlet, in a kind of class war rejection of the rich worthy of american reality television


Thursday, December 17

The National Park Stage of Environmental Devastation

I have started to notice something in my wanderings: As a tendency, countries don't establish National Parks until there is almost no wild land left. As much as we applaud nations for such an act, which was now famously pioneered by the United States (thank you Ken Burns!), it actually can be a sign not that a nation is pristine, but that it is on the skids environmentally, and having an awakening. It's like an Alcoholic admitting he has a problem. I think it is fair to stay this was the case with the United States.. the Logging industry had torn through it by then, and it was a reaction, not necissarily an intrinsically noble act.
Case in point could be a comparison between Costa Rica and Belize. Costa Rica has a well developed National Park System that is one of the drivers of it's thriving Tourism Industry, but it is offically listed as 40% forested (sometimes agencies mickey with these numbers and , and I think it might be less. Belize is pretty casual about the whole national park thing, and it's 71% forested (we get to it tomorrow.. no worry!). In a funny way it seems like when a country finally gets around to making national parks, it's making a funny compromise.. it's dividing up the spoils, and what is left almost always gets eaten up.. you can almost see the edges of a lot of parks because everything up to the line gets developed.. it's almost as if the declaration of the park gives value to all around it.. and people perk up and realize the lumber and all is worth harvesting and up for grabs...
this is why in some funny way, I am more fascinated by countries that haven't gotten their act together to get to this point.. there almost seems to be more wilderness, and less bureaucracy, and bureaucracy in countries like the kinds I am referring to can almost have a negative impact.. the powers that be get involved and start to smell the money, since their cousin just declared a national park, and it isn't always a good thing for the whole ecosystem, assuming the land inside the new boundaries is properly administered and preserved. They come up and gobble up everything up tot he line as if the park gives them permission, like a blessing of sorts..
It's a tricky world this..
The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promis'd joy!

Monday, March 30

The Pros and Cons of South Korea

Pros

  • Genial People
  • Fascinating food, all rooted (quite literally) in what grows locally
  • They rarely seem to have a hidden agenda... South Koreans go to great pains to be straightforward, and seem to have a strong sense of if not fairness, a sense of mutual obligation.
  • Koreans never dehumanize each other, unless they perceive it's for your own good in some weird way
  • There is no expectation of tipping, but the customer service still tends to be quite good
  • They are quite industrious
  • The country works well, but only if you stay within their conventions... they aren't great outside the box.
  • Time matters to Koreans.. they might not know how to relax passively, but they respect that time matters to foreigners and to others, and they move at a pace that satisfies that need when necessary.
  • While not wild, they have reforested... they are wealthy enough now to show restraint, and since so many grew up without wealth, they learned restraint actively.
  • They are quite unified, and obsessed with unity, and it makes them undeniably a culture and people.. this is not a melting pot.. they are a people who evolved a unique identity over years, often in isolation, but with contact, from neighbors in China, Japan, and perhaps even Siberia.
  • Koreans are known for being Highly determined, to the point of almost suicidal focus. If it's what you need, it's there in spades.
  • Actions are more important than face in Korea, which is at odds with most of Asia, and helpful to those trying to take action there..they don't loose face.. they either fight with you or agree with you, or laugh, but they don't have that combination of fragility and shame that prevails in Asia to cover insecurities, inabilities and weaknesses. They can be quite honest and forthright about taking criticism and see it as constructive.



Cons

  • Koreans are herd creatures... they aren't that interested in expressing individualism, even though they tend to posses a good deal of it, but war and universal military service have taken a toll, and it manifests in them going places at the same time, and doing things that are culturally approved... they don't stray from convention... they aren't that independent in behavior, even though it doesn't come across in conversation that clearly with the young. It can be a pain in the ass when you travel alone.. they just don't, and places are either empty and you get no service, because it's illogical to be there when you went instead of when everyone else goes according to Korean groupthink, or so full you wish you hadn't gone.
  • Koreans, especially older ones, are not dumb, but not smart.. it's hard to explain.. they will eventually get something, but they can be dense.. pleasant as ever, but if something doesn't concern them, they have never given it thought. It's as if their minds never wander unless told to. It might be true to say that their early lives, if they lived through the wars, which everyone in their 70's did, and there was poverty for years after, affecting everyone in their 60's and perhaps even 50's today, they just are kind of grateful that life is better, so they aren't surging ahead with new ides.. they just kind of coast, and it's hard to get them to innovate...
  • They don't have great aesthetic taste... the obvious comparison is the Japanese.. Koreans are much more jovial than the Japanese, much happier in many ways, but they aren't as complex in their thinking.. they are much more secure with themselves, and therefore just do what works, perhaps the first solution they come up with, and not what is the best possible solution.. they are content not to seek perfection.. in fact, perfection doesn't mean anything to them like it might the Japanese. There is no hierarchy for solutions to them.. just solutions.. so that the idea of perfection and imperfection doesn't enter the picture. They are happier as farmers than philosophers in a sense. They prefer to move on than obsess, but it can lead to what might externally look like half finished ideas.
  • Korean determination can go in lieu of perspective and thought.
  • The lack of Face issues (the fear of loosing the respect of others) and the practicality of Koreans will make one assume that things are easy to accomplish in Korea, but other language and cultural barriers will still get in the way, trust me.. it's enticing to think about though..